TheHEMI.com

Good deal on the cranks. Two thoughts: if you try to offset grind the 54 crank that much then you won't have much left...to use the 92 crank in a 54 block then start whittling. You will need to turn everything down to match the 54 dimensions.
Its been done, just alot of machine time.

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I'll second some of Marts observations. We have been using stock manifolds for many years, long before any alum parts were available. Open the throttle bores to match the Holley base (1- 11/16") and if you use a Holley put a bolt pattern adapter on top. Over the years we have had good success w...

I'll mention two items not yet covered. 1) The price for a Hemi to TF adapter will be in the $500 range. Add it to your 'package' costs. 2) Unless you spend alot of money, there is no easy way to get an OD trans for the B-RB engines. You can save alot of money on the 354 if you keep the stock intake...

The oem color is available from your Mopar dealer. Check ebay.

As noted, some rods are 'off-shore' products. The buyer must decide where to invest his money. There are many USA made rods available, but perhaps not at the same price point. Regarding the rolled fillet; we often weld up and regrind the journal with a generous radius as this makes an overall strong...

Danny and 'bud' make good points about aftermarket rods. High strength, light weight, and the prices have certainly moderated over the last few years. As you noted, in addition to wrist pin and journal diameters it is imperative to know the rod width. If the rod is skinny then you will need to weld ...

Apparently, no one has old catalogues for the 2 brands. You might try calling them yourself.

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Yeah, don't try to compare the Hemi to other lesser engines...lol
The stock 354-392 valves are 2.0 x 1.75 and will do everything you need on a street engine. Keep in mind that the stock sodium filled exhaust are about 7/16" dia so new guides are a given.


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Valves are a bit smaller, the exhaust also uses sodium filled stems and rotators. The heat 'riser' is part of the cooling system.

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The rod pulled apart somewhere around 7000 rpm. It was a 3/8 stroker running 11:1 comp. Of course it could have been a defect in the rod, not just because it was 'skinny'. The advantage Mr Garlits had is that parts got changed fairly regular as where you will probably want to avoid scheduled teardow...

Sorry for the 'down time'...I am not accustomed to personal attacks in a public forum and needed a break. I am surprised that no one has stepped up to help you in the last 2-weeks...I'll attempt to finish what is in front of us. The 6-pak rod is very heavy, I do not recommend its use unless a blower...

.....[i]to the same consideration as mine[/i].....

You appear to be an arrogant pompus butt. You are, it seems, unable or unwilling to post your theorem for everyone to read and discuss, so I'm done and the soap box is yours. Use it wisely.

We will continue to disagree. Pick a new fight with someone else.

[b]Cheap Hemi[/b] is the ultimate oxymoron :lol: :lol: Our charges for sonic testing vary with the number of 'reads' in each hole and whether or not a printout is needed; its all labour. The $85 quote you have sounds very fair. Be sure to ask around, any shop doing high performance or diesel work sh...

Good questions. First, a word of caution regarding large overbores in the 392. Be sure to sonic check each hole to verify that an .060 will not leave a thin spot. The 392 is well known for core shift. As for the r/s ratio, here a couple of examples to ponder: 392...4.25 stroke with 440 rod (6.76) = ...

...and all this time I thought that the laws of physics had been throughly vetted...
perchance you are a tenured professor somewhere ? Naw, I didn't think so.

Assuming that all of the rods are the same length, then the piston will spend as much time on the bottom as it does at the top. The crank will cover the same number of degrees rotation, it does not know, or care, whether the piston is at top or bottom.

You are correct, the longer the rod the more dwell time at TDC and BDC. This is part of what makes a 392 a big torque engine, but remember that the 440 is not exactly a wimp with the 6.75 rod. As I recall, the width of the bbc rod is similar to the 392 and 440, but since you are welding it up you ca...

Yeah, you're right, opinions are like...well, you know. We have used the stock 392 rod in many rebuilds, but only when we are satisified that they meet the minimum requirements for the particular project; blown engines and big strokers tend to put alot of stress on internals and we will go to great ...

I might suggest talking with your chosen piston supplier to determine the highest position you can have for the pin, then back into the rod length. With all things being equal, if you want a ½' arm can you move the pin by ¼"? Perhaps you can even have the pin higher, but do the math before spen...

Fully Agree. The fan shroud is probably one of the most important and also the most overlooked cooling system components.

Something sounds 'fishy' here....Is the block on a stand? can you see the top half of the cage? There is nothing to hold the cage in place other than the bottom half with an o-ring. If you need to save the stock parts then install the main cap loosely before you put it in a hot tank....or put 'somet...

Great information. Thanks for taking the time to write the post.

$38K sounds like a bunch...you might also check with the folks at the 'forward look' web site-they have a great forum.

Bret, all of the available cast pistons are built for replacement use, that is, stock compression. The best you can do with a cast piece is the 1955 version at 8.5:1, however, we have yet to find a cast slug that actually makes what is advertised.......You may want to spend the extra for a forged pi...