6V to 12V conversion on a 241

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AndresHEMI
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:40 pm

6V to 12V conversion on a 241

Post by AndresHEMI »

Hello All,
As the title implies, I am looking to convert the 6Volt system in my '54 Coronet to a 12Volt system.
I have a general idea as to what's involved, just not exactly what parts should be upgraded.
I already have an Altenator as well as a voltage regulator, but need to know what else I need to swap.

Also, did the 241 ever come with a 4bbl intake?


Thanks in advance.
George
Posts: 697
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 4:12 pm
Location: Fl

Re: 6V to 12V conversion on a 241

Post by George »

You'll need to step down the juice going to the instruments. The 270 had a 4V intake & fits.
mart
Posts: 536
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:06 pm

Re: 6V to 12V conversion on a 241

Post by mart »

AndresHEMI wrote:Hello All,
As the title implies, I am looking to convert
the 6Volt system in my '54 Coronet to a 12
Volt system. I have a general idea as to what's
involved, just not exactly what parts should
be upgraded. I already have an Altenator as
well as a voltage regulator, but need to know
what else I need to swap.

Also, did the 241 ever come with a 4bbl intake?


Thanks in advance.
---------------------------------------------
Many years ago, I worked in a marina for while and
we converted a lot of '30's and '40's vintage antique
wooden boats from 6V to 12V. For the engine, the 6V
starter can stay 'as is'. It'll work fne - actually better
- on 12 volts, as it doesn't run long enough for the extra
voltage to hurt it and it will now spin twice as fast,
with twice as much power as before. The ignition coil
should either be changed to a 12V unit or have a resister
added though, or the points life will be shortened.

For the rest of the car, you can change all the bulbs
to 12V equivalents, but any other other electrical
accesories like the heater blower motor and radio if
it's got them - and the any electrical powered gauges
in the dash, other than the ammeter will need resistors.
The ammeter will ok work 'as is' on 12V. I think the
temperature and oil pressure gauges in these cars
are mechanical so other than the gas gauge, there's
not really much to chage instrument wise. For the gas
gauge put the resistor on the power wire going to
the sender, not on the gauge itself.

Don't worry about the actual wiring in the car, so
long as it and the insulation on it, is in good shape.
Since 6V systems have only half the voltage, but
draw twice as much current as a 12V system, the
wiring used in 6V systems is usually twice as heavy
as the wiring used in a 12V systems, so assuming
it's in still good condition. it's actually better.

mart
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