Engine Photos

Discussion of the 331-354-392 HEMIs.

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61hawk
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Engine Photos

Post by 61hawk » Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:34 am

Got photos of my engine from the engine rebuilder. I should have it next Sunday and it'll be going into my '65 Chevy pickup.
Image
Image

Lee
Last edited by 61hawk on Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

comet

Post by comet » Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:06 pm

That's very cool. Post up some specs when you get a chance.

Moparlee
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Location: Carthage, MO

Post by Moparlee » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:21 am

Killer, thanks for the pictures. What cubes is it and what all did you do it?

Lee
392 Hemi
354 cracked and needs a sleeve
241 or 270 the only running one I have
340/E-brock heads/six-pack/4-speed/mini tubed/spool-64 Valiant

Bailiesdad
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Location: Maryland

Post by Bailiesdad » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:26 am

Don't forget to vent the engine crankcase or you will start blowing gaskets.

61hawk
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Engine Test Fit

Post by 61hawk » Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:24 pm

I've created a website for my '65 Chevy truck that I'll be putting the 331 Hemi in. Here's the link: http://laanderud.com/65chevy . One question I have is that I will need to use a remote thermostat housing... where do I attach it? I've never seen a picture of one attached to the engine.

We will be putting a PVC valve in the rear of the valley cover. Will that be enough of a vent or do I need to do more than that?

The engine was bored out 0.030 (I think), I don't have my paperwork here. The engine builder did say it was close to a 340 now. They did run it on an engine dyno with full length headers and the best reading were right at 330 HP at 4800 rpm. I know he balanced the engine as well... had all of the pistons down to within a gram. Overkill for the cruise-in application I have intended for it... plus since the truck isn't posi-traction, I can always impress people with the one tire burnouts.

Thanks.

Lee

Bailiesdad
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Post by Bailiesdad » Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:30 am

"We will be putting a PVC valve in the rear of the valley cover. Will that be enough of a vent or do I need to do more than that?"

That should be fine it will replace the factory road dump tube.

If you incresed the compression breathers or vents on the valve covers would also help if too much pressure is building up.

65Valiant
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Post by 65Valiant » Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:44 am

HERE IS A LINK TO A PHOTO OF THE REMOTE THERMOSTAT ON MY 1956 354 HEMI


http://www.chicagolandmopar.com/photos/ ... _0923.html



WE MADE IT OURSELVE AND WORKS GREAT, THANKS BRIAN

61hawk
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Post by 61hawk » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:29 pm

Balliesdad & 65Valiant: Thanks for the tips and pictures.

Well it fits!!! Pretty damn well too, just need to notch and box in the front crossmember and I should have clearance where I need it.

http://laanderud.com/65chevy/022707/index.html

Lee

Moparlee
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Post by Moparlee » Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:08 am

Looks good.

Lee
392 Hemi
354 cracked and needs a sleeve
241 or 270 the only running one I have
340/E-brock heads/six-pack/4-speed/mini tubed/spool-64 Valiant

oldngood
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:14 pm

Re: Engine Photos

Post by oldngood » Sun Mar 16, 2008 4:39 pm

61hawk wrote:Got photos of my engine from the engine rebuilder. I should have it next Sunday and it'll be going into my '65 Chevy pickup.
Image
Image

Lee


just one problem there- you have the early 331 heads with no front water outlet, they would require a "wet" intake manifold to house thermostat and attach upper radiator hose- that engine basically has no rad hose/t-stat capability as is- by what I can glean, you either have to switch to an early wet intake 1-4, i.e. 1954 intake- OR drill holes/tap for fittings in that alum intake manifold, in the stock water crossover locations just behind first ports on each side, and run a custom home-made crossover/hoses/waterneck, to attach your rad hose to

I know this is an old thread, but the buildup I'm planning will face this same hurdle, what did you do to solve this problem ?

nice looking engine there regardless- great work !

budmspeeco
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Location: South Houston, Texas

Engine Photos

Post by budmspeeco » Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:53 pm

Look in this section for the reply Scott posted of the photos I took Saturday May5,2007 at 9:47 PM. The hoses are attached to the ports at the front of the intake between 1/3 on the driver side and 2/4 on the passenger side. A small amount of material may have to be ground off of the water pump to clear the plate and studs. This solves the problem of no outlets on the front of the heads. . It shows the remote housing and plumbing built with used fittings from eBay. I glass beaded them to make them all have the same flat aluminum look. The water pump you put on the block has a pair of flat spots beside each water inlet the pump bolts to. Just drill and tap a pair of holes for 1/4" studs. A piece of 3/16th aluminum plate was used to make the bracket to hold it in place. The water outlet can be aimed forward or straight up. Buddy
'48 anglia

oldngood
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Post by oldngood » Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:58 am

I've seen other mods for front waterneck on early heads such as these as well- will check out your mod when I find it. It's not an insurmountable problem, but there is a definite need for an aftermarket "wet" intake that is just bolt on- or an aftermarket kit- does Hot Heads make anything ? To be honest IMHO, I'd rather just run a 1954 factory iron 1-4 intake with waterneck, bolt it on and go. Thanks for reply.

61hawk
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Re: Engine Photos

Post by 61hawk » Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:51 pm

oldngood wrote: just one problem there- you have the early 331 heads with no front water outlet, they would require a "wet" intake manifold to house thermostat and attach upper radiator hose- that engine basically has no rad hose/t-stat capability as is- by what I can glean, you either have to switch to an early wet intake 1-4, i.e. 1954 intake- OR drill holes/tap for fittings in that alum intake manifold, in the stock water crossover locations just behind first ports on each side, and run a custom home-made crossover/hoses/waterneck, to attach your rad hose to

I know this is an old thread, but the buildup I'm planning will face this same hurdle, what did you do to solve this problem ?

nice looking engine there regardless- great work !
The outlets are in the heads, they are located toward the front inner part of the head. I'm going to have to use a remote thermostat housing and run one line to each head. Have I figured out how to do it yet without it looking like crap... nope. I can run the lines without any problem, locating the thermostat housing might be a little tricky.

61hawk
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Re: Engine Photos

Post by 61hawk » Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:15 pm

budmspeeco wrote:Look in this section for the reply Scott posted of the photos I took Saturday May5,2007 at 9:47 PM. The hoses are attached to the ports at the front of the intake between 1/3 on the driver side and 2/4 on the passenger side. A small amount of material may have to be ground off of the water pump to clear the plate and studs. This solves the problem of no outlets on the front of the heads. . It shows the remote housing and plumbing built with used fittings from eBay. I glass beaded them to make them all have the same flat aluminum look. The water pump you put on the block has a pair of flat spots beside each water inlet the pump bolts to. Just drill and tap a pair of holes for 1/4" studs. A piece of 3/16th aluminum plate was used to make the bracket to hold it in place. The water outlet can be aimed forward or straight up. Buddy
Did you put in a PCV valve? I see vents on the one valve covers but not on the painted stock covers.

Lee

dan miller
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Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 5:05 am

Re: Engine Photos

Post by dan miller » Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:11 pm

PC Valve: If you want to use a PC valve, and they are very good idea, you'll need to admit filtered make up air into the engine. Otherwise, the benefit of the PC valve (circulating air) will not be realized. You'll also be pulling a vacuum in the engine which can cause issues.

There are several ways to accomplish this admission of air, one of which would be from the air cleaner to either the valley, or one or both of the valve covers. Another option is to utilize a small filter, such as a K&N.

I feel that the best (and least cluttered looking) method is to introduce the make up air into one valve cover, and draw air out of the other valve cover into the PC valve.

Between the utilization of a PC valve and a 180 degree thermostat, your engine will stay very clean inside.

Danny

61hawk
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Re: Engine Photos

Post by 61hawk » Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:03 pm

dan miller wrote:PC Valve: If you want to use a PC valve, and they are very good idea, you'll need to admit filtered make up air into the engine. Otherwise, the benefit of the PC valve (circulating air) will not be realized. You'll also be pulling a vacuum in the engine which can cause issues.

There are several ways to accomplish this admission of air, one of which would be from the air cleaner to either the valley, or one or both of the valve covers. Another option is to utilize a small filter, such as a K&N.

I feel that the best (and least cluttered looking) method is to introduce the make up air into one valve cover, and draw air out of the other valve cover into the PC valve.

Between the utilization of a PC valve and a 180 degree thermostat, your engine will stay very clean inside.

Danny
That would work, but I just spent $200 having the factory valve covers powdercoated and professionally letter painted (http://laanderud.com/65chevy/100407/). What we're planning on doing is there's a way to tap into the oil pan and use kind of a reverse draft-tube up along the firewall for the supply air... that Studebaker used this on the Avanti engines. I don't know all the particulars but it's supposed to work fine... filtered air goes into the oil pan and exits at the PC valve in the valley pan.

Lee

dan miller
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Re: Engine Photos

Post by dan miller » Wed Apr 09, 2008 4:26 pm

Hello Lee

Those valve covers are beyond beautiful!!!!!

I can sure see why you wouldn't want to cut holes in them.

Danny

61hawk
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Re: Engine Photos

Post by 61hawk » Wed Apr 09, 2008 4:41 pm

Thanks, I found a guy selling similar valve covers on E-Bay, contacted him and he was willing to do my pair. I don't know if he's still doing it or not, shortly after doing mine I got an e-mail from him telling me that these were some of the best condition valve covers he's worked on, and that he was going to start only doing his own valve covers because people were sending him scrap metal quality valve covers and expecting him to perform miracles with them. I told him that I would not do any unless I saw pictures up front and wouldn't give a final price until I had them in my hands. I think I paid him $150 to do the pair plus $50 for shipping (both ways). I told him he's not charging enough since he sent the powder coated valve covers to someone else to do the letter painting. I'm not sure how he made much money doing them.

Lee

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