Has anyone used the Sanderson shorty headers for the early Hemi? I'm just looking for a few dimensions and an overall opinion of quality. I currently have a set of the Hot Heads shortys, but I'm thinking maybe Sanderson instead....
Steve
Sanderson DD3 Headers
Moderators: scottm, TrWaters, 392heminut
Sanderson DD3 Headers
just passin' thru
I'm using them on my '54 331. I'm 160 miles away from the engine currently but I do have pictures of them on the engine.
http://laanderud.com/65chevy/022507/
http://laanderud.com/65chevy/022707/
Or just look at the whole project up to this point:
http://laanderud.com/65chevy/
Lee
http://laanderud.com/65chevy/022507/
http://laanderud.com/65chevy/022707/
Or just look at the whole project up to this point:
http://laanderud.com/65chevy/
Lee
Thanks for the pictures, Lee. Nice buildup you have going there. I ended up buying a set of the Sandersons and bolted them up. Here's what I'm finding:
Overall quality of welds and fabrication goes to Hot Heads. They make a better header in my opioion. The tubes on the Sandersons are 1 7/8" with a 3" collector. The turnout supplied by Sanderson reduces this down to 2 1/2". The Hot Heads tubes are 2" with a 2 1/2" collector.
I get more frame clearance with the Hot Heads units than with the Sanderson, but my steering linkage will fit with either one.
The Hot Heads headers dump straight down, and once I fit up the mating collector flange and 90 degree bend, I'm a lot lower than I wanted to be. The Sanderson units, as you know, turn down at an angle, and with the supplied turnout, which is angled to match the header, I find that I'm about 1" higher with the Sanderson units.
Bottom line: I'll most likely be going with the Sanderson headers, not because of fit and finish, but because of a shorter installed height relative to the ground.
Another thing about Sanderson is their idea if building each exhaust port surface with weld and grinding it down for a supposedly gasketless seal. Time will tell if it works as good as they claim.
Thanks again for the pictures, and good luck with your buildup.
Steve
Overall quality of welds and fabrication goes to Hot Heads. They make a better header in my opioion. The tubes on the Sandersons are 1 7/8" with a 3" collector. The turnout supplied by Sanderson reduces this down to 2 1/2". The Hot Heads tubes are 2" with a 2 1/2" collector.
I get more frame clearance with the Hot Heads units than with the Sanderson, but my steering linkage will fit with either one.
The Hot Heads headers dump straight down, and once I fit up the mating collector flange and 90 degree bend, I'm a lot lower than I wanted to be. The Sanderson units, as you know, turn down at an angle, and with the supplied turnout, which is angled to match the header, I find that I'm about 1" higher with the Sanderson units.
Bottom line: I'll most likely be going with the Sanderson headers, not because of fit and finish, but because of a shorter installed height relative to the ground.
Another thing about Sanderson is their idea if building each exhaust port surface with weld and grinding it down for a supposedly gasketless seal. Time will tell if it works as good as they claim.
Thanks again for the pictures, and good luck with your buildup.
Steve
just passin' thru
You wont have to put Hot heads /or Sandersons in a arbor press to flatten the flanges. There's about 3 other mfg's on the market that put out some hack work You'll end up pressing the flanges flat & trying to clean up projecting globs where they meet the primaries to the collector.
My problem with all of them is the fact that they run the "hot exhaust" right into the oil pan at the bottom. No Air gaps to 1/8"-1/4". A nice way to direct heat right to your oil.
In 2 builds with 2 dif. mfg's products, I've had to grab a chop saw & cut the collectors off. I slightly redirected them outward "away from my oil pan" & welded them back on. I prob. have a whole 1/2" of clearance now. 2 1/2 Tube is fine in all aplications. Even high performance builds if one avoids muffler shop bends in the remaining pipe. I buy mandrel pre-bent tubing then cut several sections out, to create my exhausts. Muffler shop bends restrict exhaust flow 30 to 40%
My problem with all of them is the fact that they run the "hot exhaust" right into the oil pan at the bottom. No Air gaps to 1/8"-1/4". A nice way to direct heat right to your oil.
In 2 builds with 2 dif. mfg's products, I've had to grab a chop saw & cut the collectors off. I slightly redirected them outward "away from my oil pan" & welded them back on. I prob. have a whole 1/2" of clearance now. 2 1/2 Tube is fine in all aplications. Even high performance builds if one avoids muffler shop bends in the remaining pipe. I buy mandrel pre-bent tubing then cut several sections out, to create my exhausts. Muffler shop bends restrict exhaust flow 30 to 40%