Thank for the info Dan. It's just going to be a street/rat rod engine. 400 hp max.
Plan on calling Bob at hot Heads this week to put together an engine kit.
The $1200 is for surfacing, boring, cleaning and some other stuff. Price sound fair to you guys?
The shop said -10 to 20 on the mains and rods. +40 on the cylinders. Should I just go 60 and be done with it?
354 Hemi build
Moderators: scottm, TrWaters, 392heminut
Re: 354 Hemi build
The hemi is all I have for my Rat Rod.....1956 354 HEMI
Re: 354 Hemi build
go 060 only if you have to. if you ever need to redo the cylinders down the road, you won't have many options.
Re: 354 Hemi build
Agree! 4"(392 standard bore) is .0625 & is max with a sonic check. Thicker is better & you won't notice the diffrence on a street engine.NE57 wrote:go 060 only if you have to. if you ever need to redo the cylinders down the road, you won't have many options.
Re: 354 Hemi build
Sound good. I will go as much as I have too. You all are the hemi gods.
The hemi is all I have for my Rat Rod.....1956 354 HEMI
Re: 354 Hemi build
That should be as little as I have to!Hemi8me wrote:Sound good. I will go as much as I have too. You all are the hemi gods.
Re: 354 Hemi build
Machining will start soon.
I've been having trouble getting on the phone with Hot Heads. The phone is always busy. They got back to me by email.
Time to empty the bank account. Bad part is, I will have this bad butt looking hemi sitting in the garage with nothing to put it in. Most plan better.
I've been having trouble getting on the phone with Hot Heads. The phone is always busy. They got back to me by email.
Time to empty the bank account. Bad part is, I will have this bad butt looking hemi sitting in the garage with nothing to put it in. Most plan better.
The hemi is all I have for my Rat Rod.....1956 354 HEMI
Re: 354 Hemi build
Bought my current Hemi 4+ years ago with no project in mind other than buying parts for it cuz there not getting any
cheaper.After about a year a Model A coupe became available.Bought it,drove it home and pulled the V6 and auto
trans. and the Hemi had a new home.
cheaper.After about a year a Model A coupe became available.Bought it,drove it home and pulled the V6 and auto
trans. and the Hemi had a new home.
-
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 5:05 am
Re: 354 Hemi build
A couple things to think about before assembling.
1) There are two pipe plugs at the ends of the oil galleys at the rear of the engine. Behind the larger of the two (in about 2") is another small pipe plug. It needs to be removed to clean the oil galley on that side.
2) The oil bypass valve will need to be removed. It comes out of a hole in the block under the rear main cap. Use a rod, about .125", and bang it out through the oil pressure gauge tapped hole next to the distributor. Usually, the guts (a ball and spring) will pop right out, but make sure that the housing also comes out. We run a .625" US tap in the hole and screw in a .625" set screw. Make sure the set screw is deep enough that it doesn't block the oil passage.
3) I prefer the set screw deal that eliminates the bypass. No chance of failure (stuck open/closed). Hot Heads has a nice bypass unit if you want the bypass "feature".
4) It's a LOT easier to get the pipe plugs out if it's done before the block is thermally cleaned.
5) It's a good idea to run a brush or rod through all the oil holes in the lifter bosses. Sometimes there's enough gunk in the end of the oil galley to plug the bosses at the rear.
Danny
1) There are two pipe plugs at the ends of the oil galleys at the rear of the engine. Behind the larger of the two (in about 2") is another small pipe plug. It needs to be removed to clean the oil galley on that side.
2) The oil bypass valve will need to be removed. It comes out of a hole in the block under the rear main cap. Use a rod, about .125", and bang it out through the oil pressure gauge tapped hole next to the distributor. Usually, the guts (a ball and spring) will pop right out, but make sure that the housing also comes out. We run a .625" US tap in the hole and screw in a .625" set screw. Make sure the set screw is deep enough that it doesn't block the oil passage.
3) I prefer the set screw deal that eliminates the bypass. No chance of failure (stuck open/closed). Hot Heads has a nice bypass unit if you want the bypass "feature".
4) It's a LOT easier to get the pipe plugs out if it's done before the block is thermally cleaned.
5) It's a good idea to run a brush or rod through all the oil holes in the lifter bosses. Sometimes there's enough gunk in the end of the oil galley to plug the bosses at the rear.
Danny