A 426 in a 74 plymouth duster?
Moderators: scottm, TrWaters, 392heminut
A 426 in a 74 plymouth duster?
Could i put a 426 in a 74 plymouth duster? If so what would i need? is it an easy job? could the car handle it? what kind of set-up should i have to help stop and start and support this monster?
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 8:54 pm
- Location: STL
I'll take this one..... To fit a 426 block in an A-body, you will need to do the following:
A) The master cylinder will not clear the driver's valve cover. Buy the adapter plate $175.00 (about) and deal with removing it every time you want to adjust your rockers, or do what I did and engineer a setup to move it waaaaay outboard.
B) figure out how the engine will sit and what kind of mount you will use. The Schumacher mounts will adapt the hemi to almost any wedge mount K-frame, but......
C) The header choice dictates what mounts you will use, and to just use the 2.25" Hookers I had, I went with a motor plate.
D) But the damn hookers aren't a bolt in, so you better be ready to cut, weld, and shape a set of headers that probably cost you about $500.00 min.
E) Did I mention that the torsion bars are in the way of the headers, and your steering coupler will have the grease boiled out of it from the headers......unless you put a universal on.
F) A standard starter doesnt fit, and can't be changed out if your header #7 pipe can' come out by itself. Use the late model dodge mini-starter, and don't pay for the damn racing starter, the production one is the same......or close enuf.
g) Check yer clearance on the pass side fenderwell, the '68 a-bodies had it heated and beat w/ a hammer, I tried to shoehorn it for a better fit and ended up with a valve cover that BARELY comes off and I'll probably redo that
H) oil pan: you is stuck with the pass car mid-sump pan unless you do some MAJOR cutting on the K-Member.
I) HEMI TRANS , and torque converter, but if you use a 440 crank (i didn't) you could get away with a 6-bolt flexplate and a standard housing (bolt) converter.
J) Did I mention your defroster fan is coming out to make room for the passenger side valve cover?
K) BRAKES- drums are suicide.
L) subframe connectors (at least)
M) 8.75, dana 60 , or gasp- phord 9 inch, the others are getting scarce.
N) plan to run out of money several times.
O) I'm sure I'm missing something.
P) Don't even start this unless you have unlimited use of a cutting torch, engine hoist, mig welder, and a padded room where no one can hear you scream, OR just pay someone to do it.
Q) i know I've forgotten something, but the fact is that this whole operation is not your typical engine swap.
R) oh yeah, the biggest torsion bars you can get.
Remember that this engine weighs 850 lbs easy by itself when you scrounge up yer hoist and stand.
A) The master cylinder will not clear the driver's valve cover. Buy the adapter plate $175.00 (about) and deal with removing it every time you want to adjust your rockers, or do what I did and engineer a setup to move it waaaaay outboard.
B) figure out how the engine will sit and what kind of mount you will use. The Schumacher mounts will adapt the hemi to almost any wedge mount K-frame, but......
C) The header choice dictates what mounts you will use, and to just use the 2.25" Hookers I had, I went with a motor plate.
D) But the damn hookers aren't a bolt in, so you better be ready to cut, weld, and shape a set of headers that probably cost you about $500.00 min.
E) Did I mention that the torsion bars are in the way of the headers, and your steering coupler will have the grease boiled out of it from the headers......unless you put a universal on.
F) A standard starter doesnt fit, and can't be changed out if your header #7 pipe can' come out by itself. Use the late model dodge mini-starter, and don't pay for the damn racing starter, the production one is the same......or close enuf.
g) Check yer clearance on the pass side fenderwell, the '68 a-bodies had it heated and beat w/ a hammer, I tried to shoehorn it for a better fit and ended up with a valve cover that BARELY comes off and I'll probably redo that
H) oil pan: you is stuck with the pass car mid-sump pan unless you do some MAJOR cutting on the K-Member.
I) HEMI TRANS , and torque converter, but if you use a 440 crank (i didn't) you could get away with a 6-bolt flexplate and a standard housing (bolt) converter.
J) Did I mention your defroster fan is coming out to make room for the passenger side valve cover?
K) BRAKES- drums are suicide.
L) subframe connectors (at least)
M) 8.75, dana 60 , or gasp- phord 9 inch, the others are getting scarce.
N) plan to run out of money several times.
O) I'm sure I'm missing something.
P) Don't even start this unless you have unlimited use of a cutting torch, engine hoist, mig welder, and a padded room where no one can hear you scream, OR just pay someone to do it.
Q) i know I've forgotten something, but the fact is that this whole operation is not your typical engine swap.
R) oh yeah, the biggest torsion bars you can get.
Remember that this engine weighs 850 lbs easy by itself when you scrounge up yer hoist and stand.
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 8:54 pm
- Location: STL
And BTW, this will all cost you about $15,000, if not more in materials, time, mistakes, and of course, engine. I stopped counting the dollars around $9,000, during the actual machine work. I'm nowhere near done, and I've managed to spend UNGODLY amounts in spite of snagging sweetheart deals like the $35.00 intake manifold. Say it with me:"THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS AN INEXPENSIVE HEMI". And another thing, (in ref to your headers post,) HEMI's aren't daily drivers, they are a bear to dial in and tune, unless you have the greenbacks for EFI, and there has to be an easier way to pick up girls. Most of them don't even know what a hemi is, and aren't impressed when they do. Mine is, but she's unique (shameless brownosing attempt). She's actually a top fuel addict.
sweeet looks like you got a keeper!
what kinda car you have?
should i just machine the 360 i have now?
what should i do to it?stroke? bore?
what kinda parts? hidrolic cam? or the other kind?
forged or stamped damn forgot the name the thingy with waights (kida like a cam but bigger)
what kind of headers? manifold? carb?
what kinda car you have?
should i just machine the 360 i have now?
what should i do to it?stroke? bore?
what kinda parts? hidrolic cam? or the other kind?
forged or stamped damn forgot the name the thingy with waights (kida like a cam but bigger)
what kind of headers? manifold? carb?
-
- Posts: 172
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 8:07 pm
- Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 8:54 pm
- Location: STL
Just some friendly advice, Crash..... The thingy with the waights(?) counterweights? is the crankshaft. I think you may be trying to fly before you've learned to walk. I'm not a master mechanic by any stretch, but I learned the basics before I tore into a car. Just remember... You may actually be able to buy and install a crate motor into that duster. But do you have the skills to track down the little gremlins that always sneak into a car that gets pulled apart and sits for any length of time? When it doesn't start, can you tell by the way its cranking that you installed the distributor 180 degrees out? Will you be able to persevere, get it running, or end up with a dead car in 3 separate piles of parts that gets sent to the crusher while you get discouraged and buy a second-hand saturn? Just a thought-if this isn't a spoof post like PANIC thinks it is, then go out and get a factory service manual and start reading. Worry about a good-running duster before getting a fire-breathing duster. If you can do that, then the hot-rod part is easy. And if the manuals are above your head, then go to howstuffworks.com and learn the absolute basics about otto-cycle, 4-stroke reciprocating internal-combustion engines. Hot rodding is only about refining the short-cuts, and compromises built into a production car by detroit. They built the duster to get grandma to the corner grocery and the bingo parlor. To make it anything else, you must learn the secrets of the motorhead, grasshopper.
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 8:54 pm
- Location: STL
LOL that is right crankshatf!!!! i just have memory problems it suck i can't remember names. LOL well i am saving up my money to get my 360 worked on by west mopar engians. Who needs to walk when you can fly anyway. and yeah i almost for got to tell you guys im only 18 and gtting my drivers licence in a few weeks. I had no time to think about getting it wheil i was working on my bros 72 duster 318 .
Hemi in an e-body
I'm gearing up to put a hemi in a 70 Cuda. I first see the e-body is alittle wider This will help. The car was originally a Vcode 440 6-pack. The car is very modified (Firewall cut for engine set back using motor plate, Steering removed and replaced with a 70-72 Mustang rack & pinion and moved over toward fender. K-frame and shock towers cut for added room and weight reduction) The car was built for Pro Stock in the early 70s. Retired in the mid 70s and has sat since. Because of all the mods restore to original is not feasible.
My question is even with all the mods for more room the torsion bars appear to be in the way. I am thinking of moving the shocks out of the shock tower and use a coil over to the top frame rail thus eliminating the torsion bars. Has anyone tryied this?
My question is even with all the mods for more room the torsion bars appear to be in the way. I am thinking of moving the shocks out of the shock tower and use a coil over to the top frame rail thus eliminating the torsion bars. Has anyone tryied this?
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 4:45 pm
Yes it fits ('73 Duster)....and the torson bars.....and the heater......and no "elephant ears" or sheet metal mods.........My own headers, Mancini offset master cylinder mount and a pinto rack inside of the K-frame. The engine (a Barton 472) has aluminum heads, water pump & housing, intake and motor mounts......as well as lightweight tube headers and is not that heavy at all.....440 Dart bars were way too stiff and I settled on 318 bars. The rear is an 8.75 with 3:55's and Moser axles. Drivability is excellent.
.......
.......
Last edited by hemiduster on Wed May 31, 2006 8:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 4:45 pm
and..............here's a 528 crate in a '71 Duster that I built for a buddy in Pittsburg. It has a Kiesler 5-speed conversion
with a Dana 60, 4-wheel disc brakes and coil overs on the front. K-member/subframe is my own design.
No trailer queen.........He drove it from PA to the Nat's in Columbus the last two years..............
with a Dana 60, 4-wheel disc brakes and coil overs on the front. K-member/subframe is my own design.
No trailer queen.........He drove it from PA to the Nat's in Columbus the last two years..............
Last edited by hemiduster on Wed May 31, 2006 8:51 pm, edited 4 times in total.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 4:45 pm
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 4:45 pm
-
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
- Location: Maryland