345 power possibitlities

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dodgy canuck
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:02 pm
Location: Milton, Ontario, CANADA

345 power possibitlities

Post by dodgy canuck »

So what kind of power could I expect from a stock 345ci hemi with a 500 cfm 2 barrel carb, headers and a good ignition system? I just cannot afford the $450 for a 4 barrel intake. Never mind the trouble of finding them. Someday, but for now, what does anyone think?
The trouble with trouble is that it usually starts out as fun!
mart
Posts: 536
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:06 pm

Re: 345 power possibitlities

Post by mart »

The Holley 2 bbls are rated for flow
at a higher test vacuum than their 4
bbl. carbs - so the 500 cfm two barrel
rating is actually closer to about 350
to 400 cfm for an equivalent Holley
4 bbl.
Still the a 500 cfm Holley is a good
choice (the only sensible one,
actually, if you're limited to the
stock 2 bbl intake) and has at least
as much and probably slightly more
airflow the stock Carter WCFB
4bbl. By the way...are you sure
your engine is a 345 and not the
more common 330 or 341 version?
The 341 4bbl. engines were factory
rated at 295 *gross* horsepower,
with a single - and less than 400
cfm - WCFB Carter 4bbl. The much
more common 330 and 341 base
engines came with 2bbl. carbs
- but I thought the hi-po 345 engines
were only used in the Adventurer
and all of them with two WCFB
Carter carbs. I've never seen or
heard of a 345 that came with a
even a single-four, let alone a two
bbl intake. At any rate, regardless
of whether the engine is a 341 or a
345, assuming the engine is in good
shape internally, a set of headers
and good free flowing exhaust
combined with a decent ignition,
a hotter (but mild enough to
still be streetable) cam and a 500
cfm Holley two barrel should really
wake the sleeping beast up.
Depending on the cam, you should
be able to achieve somewhere in
the low 300 *net* horsepower
range, even with the restrictive
two barrel intake.
By the way- for a better ignition,
I'd suggest something like a
Pertronix or other conversion to
get rid of the points and triggering
an MSD 6 box and coil for a good
street and mild race ignition set-up)

By the way too, a "hotter"
ignition won't do much good
unless you also open up the plug
gap to take advantage of the
increased spark potential. Any
ignition- whether a bone stock
'57 Mopar points and coil set-up,
or a high-dollar, super, trick of
the week, aftermarket ignition
set-up, advertised as being
capable "of a kazillion volts at
15,000 rpm" and guarenteed to
"stop everything and increase
everything else" <grin>,
will only put out *exactly*
enough voltage to jump the spark
gap. If the stock ignition can fire
the existing stock plug gap at a
given rpm and load without
misfiring, a "hotter" ignition
won't show any appreciable gains.
Be sure to use a good quality cap
and rotor - preferably one with
copper contacts and good low
resistance plug wires too to finish
off your ignition system, too.

mart
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