Marine Blocks

Discussion of the Marine / Industrial Hemis.

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TrWaters
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Marine Blocks

Postby TrWaters » Fri Jan 30, 2004 6:27 pm

I am sure someone can answer this for me. Are the marine blocks structually stronger than a car or industrial block? Is there any advantage to using one? Thank you.

Tom

TrWaters
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Postby TrWaters » Sat Jan 31, 2004 10:19 pm

:lol:
Guess there is no free information here.

dodgedifferent2
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Postby dodgedifferent2 » Sat Jan 31, 2004 11:44 pm

i would think they would be the same as any normal block but i can be proven wrong at any time!

dodgedifferent2
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Postby dodgedifferent2 » Sat Jan 31, 2004 11:47 pm

even the A-1 casting has also been proven wrong.

some people though thtat the A-1 casting was the ultimate block to get becasue of structural integrity but that had been proven wrong but some people still believe it .....so i think the marine and industrial would be the same as a car engine...........but i could be proven wrong

the problem with people is that everyone has an opinion and that is what this is lol

Bailiesdad
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Postby Bailiesdad » Tue Feb 10, 2004 4:27 pm

The A-1 blocks had somewhat of a higher nickle content. They were from the new factory setup on the road that came to be known as "eight mile road" because of its distance from the CHRYSLER assembly plant. The A-1 blocks expand and contract at different rates than the HH blocks. Use the one that best fits your needs. Most people will never find this helpful information as their engine building requirements are never that specific... :)

dodgedifferent2
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Postby dodgedifferent2 » Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:35 am

actually the A-1 and the HH just mean what foundary they are cast at.........
yes this is an ongoing argument about which is better but i have also read in other places, cant remember where, that the A-1 was cast as the bottom of the pot/end of the day and in that theory the nickel sank to the bottom, which would then make it a stronger block, but to think about it on the other side would they not cast at least 2 or more blocks at once and also they would have a very close idea at how much metal was to go into a block............there are also other theories floating around......i believe it was Bob Walker of Hot Heads that told me that little tidbit

dodgedifferent2
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Postby dodgedifferent2 » Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:37 am

so in conclusion i find the A-1, HH casting as a bogus piece of information they are all equal blocks!!!!!

but that is my opinion and we are all entitled to our own opinion its just weather or not people believe the lies and the truth people tell aka how big businesses survive!!!!!

XXLCH
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Marine Block Serial Number

Postby XXLCH » Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:11 pm

Looked at 2 different M45 S engines (a left and right) and didn't find any number on the narrow flat area ahead of the valley cover between the heads (opposite the dist end of engine). This is where a FirePower engine has a block number, according to http://www.classichemi.com

The Marine Engine serial info is stamped into a metal plate that is riveted on 4 corners to a flat spot below the right head at distributor end of engine. The distributor is toward the front of the boat on the engines I looked at.
xxlch

raw4mrw
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marine block

Postby raw4mrw » Wed Jun 29, 2005 9:05 pm

A marine block and a car block are different in several ways. Most do not have motor mounts on the block. the cooling pasages are differnt [the marine motors have extra ones in the block. The crank is different also because it is designed to drive the boat off of the normal "front " of the motor [when installed the engine is backwards to a car mounting] that is why the distributer is in the front right next to the flywheel. A marine block is gear driven for all power take off [ cam, water pump, generator] You might be able to make one fit in a car but at a whole lot of headaches and pocket aches. My advice is to stick with a car block they are very over-built to start with.

Bailiesdad
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Re: marine block

Postby Bailiesdad » Sun Jul 17, 2005 3:20 pm

raw4mrw wrote:A marine block and a car block are different in several ways. Most do not have motor mounts on the block. the cooling pasages are differnt [the marine motors have extra ones in the block. The crank is different also because it is designed to drive the boat off of the normal "front " of the motor [when installed the engine is backwards to a car mounting] that is why the distributer is in the front right next to the flywheel. A marine block is gear driven for all power take off [ cam, water pump, generator] You might be able to make one fit in a car but at a whole lot of headaches and pocket aches. My advice is to stick with a car block they are very over-built to start with.


The Marine and the later truck blocks are the same block. Internally and the external components are different. The blocks have the holes drilled and taped for motor mounts.

raw4mrw
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cooling passages

Postby raw4mrw » Fri Sep 02, 2005 9:15 pm

What hooks up to the two coolant lower holes in the rear "car front" of the block when it was used in a truck? I have a marine block in my garage as a spare for my boat and the block has extra coolant passages in the block.

Bailiesdad
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Postby Bailiesdad » Sat Sep 03, 2005 12:01 am

The holes are blocked off by the timingcover/motor mount arrangement.

raw4mrw
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Postby raw4mrw » Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:34 am

What I asking is how do you block off the lower holes of a marine engine block if you use it in a car? I have never seen one used in a car and was just curious how it was done. Thanks for the info.

Bailiesdad
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Postby Bailiesdad » Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:01 am

raw4mrw wrote:What I asking is how do you block off the lower holes of a marine engine block if you use it in a car? I have never seen one used in a car and was just curious how it was done. Thanks for the info.

Use one of the timing covers that block them off.


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