I can't get it to turn over, this sucks. The lifters are stuck too. Here are some pictures.






Moderators: TrWaters, 392heminut, scottm
Thanks George.George wrote:Tool called a valve compressor.
Thank you for more info. Steel it is.NE57 wrote:Yeah the guides are pressed so your shop will have to do that. You have a choice of iron or bronze guides. I went with my shop's recommendation of iron as its longer lasting and since its a street machine longevity trumps any minor gains from bronze. They way he explained it was the reason to go to bronze is if you have extreme temperature situation, like racing. Bronze doesn't gall so easy. So while not galling would normally be a plus, the chance of needing that on the street is negligible. He thought that 30,000 miles on the bronze and they'd need checking. Iron will go 100,000, he said.
Did you ever post what kind of build you want to do? Stock, performance, crazy? What kind of car you want to put it in?
It's a car engine. NE56. I have the car heads and car intake. Yes on the square. Heads have the water port on the front and back.George wrote:I take it this is a 354 truck engine. If it has the fat sodium filled valve stems you should buy new car valves & the valve guides for them. Does the heads have the square under carb crossover, it should. If so you can look for the 1954 car intake, it's a wet 4 bl. Or you have to drill between the 1st & 2nd runners & install fittings & run a remote thermostat housing. You have the small timing cover with bolts @ 11 & 1 O'clock or the big one with a bolt @ 12 O'clock?
Y were you talking about getting a wet intake? Oh...I think I figured it out...The Long BB Chevy water pump will fit over your OEM timing cover. Then just bolt on a 392 water crossover! Or run the stock W/P, or a 392 W/P & crossover, whatever floats your boat!Hemi8me wrote:It's a car engine. NE56. I have the car heads and car intake. Yes on the square. Heads have the water port on the front and back.George wrote:I take it this is a 354 truck engine. If it has the fat sodium filled valve stems you should buy new car valves & the valve guides for them. Does the heads have the square under carb crossover, it should. If so you can look for the 1954 car intake, it's a wet 4 bl. Or you have to drill between the 1st & 2nd runners & install fittings & run a remote thermostat housing. You have the small timing cover with bolts @ 11 & 1 O'clock or the big one with a bolt @ 12 O'clock?
51-4 intakes are wet intakes with solid front heads, the one obove 1534501is the only wet 4 bl. When the Chr Hemi was redesigned, 55 -58, they had the open front heads & a dry intake. Easy to say they though it an improvement over the wet style. Truck Hemis stayed with the wet intake & added sodium filled valves for extra cooling of the valves, even though they reduced port flow. Evidently they liked the wet style for severe duty. DeSoto's entire line used wet intakes & Dodge's entire line used dry. A diffrence in opinion between the 3 brands! I'd probably go with the dry.Hemi8me wrote:The intake with the casting number 1534501 is a "wet" intake. It has coolant flowing through it. My 1637625 only has the heat raisers. Correct my if I am wrong. I have heard the the "wet" intake is better, but I really have no clue.
You bet. Rick Gable, the owner of Gable's Engine and Machine shop was smiling when I showed up this morning.NE57 wrote:There's something neat about rusted old hulks about to be reincarnated.
With visions of $$$$$ in his head!Hemi8me wrote:
You bet. Rick Gable, the owner of Gable's Engine and Machine shop was smiling when I showed up this morning.